My feet’s is tired but my soul is rested!!!! noted civil rights herione, Mother Pollard”
Mother Pollard’s proclamation is how I feel having just completed my sixth trek to Cuba. Just days ago, I was trekking around Matanzas as well as Havana putting the last touches in wrapping up research for my book slated to be released in the Summer 2024. The topics are compelling but two I felt were worthy of exploration.
More important is I wanted to provide my perspective. I am sure some will be critical or provide an opposite view, but I must stress it will be my honest voice.
As most know US citizens are not allowed to visit Cuba as tourist. Those few allowed must have a legitimate reason to set foot on the soil. Cuba has shortages that would challenge even Daniel Boone!. Getting around takes laser focus planning or lots of money, which I do not have, so I had to rely on an organized itinerary.
During my visit my Epson smartwatch chalked up steps totaling 81 miles. While that seems far-fetched, I have faith in how the watch calculates and at times my body is still feeling all those steps. In addition to walking, your options are to catch the bus, which is difficult at best because there is rarely any space you can place your foot to try and get on. The other is grabbing a taxi and yes, I did take taxis on some occasions but the fact I was on a tight budget I had to choose other options. And of course I did not have a motorcycle or a bicycle.
These are some of the goals I outlined in making this last journey:
- Take in two games as part of Ligu Biesbol Cuba / Series Nacional Elite
- Revisit Estadio LatinoAmericano
- Revisit Estadio Pedro Marreno (formerly Tropicana Field)
- Locate the original site of the Buena Vista Social Club
- Visit Slave Rebellion Museo – see Carlota statue
- Meet with Cuban baseball official while seeing the Parisean Caberet
- Revisit Palma de Junco
- Go to Estadio Victoria Giron
- Complete six interviews
- Meet officials at Central Park – Esquina Caliente
Casa Particulares
My two hosts were outstanding. Again, going to Cuba does not mean you are going on vacation. The accommodations are basic at best, but that is OK, especially for me because I am trekking.
Cuba is tough to describe because many can’t believe what they are hearing or draw quick inferences of how the people should be pitied. Cuba is Cuba, the United States is the United States. Each country has it own set of challenges, although western pop-culture is a great influencer of people’s behavior. You can look at some of my pictures as anecdotal evidence, but some people appear like they really have it going on or they are living a very progressive life – despite being in a socialist/communist environment.
Several Cuban friends insist at least 90% of Cubans would leave the country today, if they could. At the same time, I have spoken to others who display national pride and dismiss any notion of abandoning it. All this is going on as there are those who take great risk and tremendous financial sacrifice for those who might sponsor them to leave Cuba and head towards the Mexico border with the goal of achieving asylum from the US.
For those able to make it, here is what they receive following their ICE interview:
- $660 per month for one year.
- Medicaid
- Snap allotment each month.
- Opportunity for Green Card after one year (although many find jobs right away – perhaps “under the table?”
Most know but really don’t understand Cuba’s socialist system or sponsored by the government. This is rations as outlined in the booklet that each person must take to receive their monthly allotments:
- 1 bread every day.
- 6 pounds of rice,
- 12 ounces of black beans,
- 3 pounds of sugar.
- 2 packs of cigarettes and 2 tobaccos.
- 1/2 pound of chicken or minced meat and
- 5 eggs for a month.
- 2-month bottle of oil
- Also, for another extra option, 2 packages of minced meat, detergent, oil, sausage for 30 or 40 days
- Also 2 soaps, 1 for bath and one for washing
- And 1 toothpaste for a month
The political solution
President Obama tried to make sense of the CUBA/USA relationship, specifically the 50 years plus embargo. For some it was a step in the right direction. Although those who opposed the CUBA regime vehemently stated their disapproval. The contradiction in that mindset is those same people are saddled with the reality of having to support family members left behind. It’s an interesting paradox as those very people, despite leaving their country in some very tenuous circumstances, no less were able to rehabilitate their lives. I’m not marginalizing the pain and suffering they endured. What I am saying is when it is better to move on? Further and very important from my perspective is many of the very Cuban nationals who are living productive lives have also achieved political relationships. In other words, they have a voice. Also, history teaches us, change is never easy and in most instances the voice comes from the youth; not those who have the wisdom or are in mid-age.
Several years ago the Government finally abolished the two currency system: CUP’s and CUC’s. The CUP’s are pesos and the CUC’s were tied to the dollar. So, today Cuban’s use CUP’s and the basic rate is 1:125 or for every US dollar you would receive 125 pesos. However on the open (black) or informal market the rate is much higher. In my case I was able to receive 1:270. So, while that is good news for me or those trading US dollars, it has deadly or tough consequences for Cuba’s state workers. Their average pay is between 5,000-6,000 pesos or translated against the dollar $40-$48 per month. But, using the black market rate it is much lower. Keep in mind those in the private market – waiters, taxis, tourist guides, barbers, etc. are able to receive much more. Y. Rodriguez, Cuban Journalist
Change for Cubans most likely will not come from the Cuban government. However, because those Cubans in the United States enjoy more freedom or have more of a voice as an aspiration might consider being more strategic. They should rally as a group and appeal to their elected officials (i.e., Rubio, Cruz, etc.) and instead of allowing them to keep blaming the obvious or issues we already know about. That is no solution and for years that have been the response, keep blaming Castro, keep blaming anyone and everyone who supports the Cuba regime. They must turn the tide and appeal to the current administration to tackle the CUBA/USA relationship, for once and for all. As people we have more in common. Of course for those who do not support this ideal, it is known there is a financial incentive to keep people impoverished or stuck in a tough economic position. And that might be the reason those Cubans in the United States would rather continue the blame game instead of getting busy.
Stay tuned as there is so much more to communicate on this topic.
In the meantime, should you wish to see some of the photos during this trek please click here
FOR THOSE OF YOU TRAVELING TO CUBA
Cuba is an ever-changing country and documents needed for entry may change or have been updated. Here is the current reality for those traveling from the United States
Passport
You will need an active passport that is not expiring within six months of your departure.
Affidavit for Travel
Assuming you thoroughly understand the requirements that have been set forth by the US Treasury, you will need to attest your permission to travel to Cuba. At your initial departure your airline will ask for this form or have you complete it on sight
Cuba Health Declaration
This form is to be completed WITHIN 3 days of your departure. Once you arrive in CUBA and you enter the customs area you will see staff who will review and collect this document. Once approved they will send you to the customs window for passport review.
Travel Visa
Some get this document in advance. No worries if you do not as your departing airline or whichever airline you are using to get to Cuba (assuming you have a connecting flight) will have someone available at your check-in to make sure you have this critical document. From my experience, those flying to Cuba from the US (i.e., Miami, etc.) will pay approximately $100. On the other hand, those flying in from other countries (i.e., Panama, Cancun, etc.) will pay between $20-$25). Don’t ask me why the difference. IN ADDITION TO YOUR PASSPORT THIS DOCUMENT SHOULD BE WITH YOU AT ALL TIMES.
Itinerary
Seems simple enough but some minimize this critical requirement until its too late and have problems justifying what they are doing in Cuba? Your itinerary should be specific, day by day, exactly what your activities will be (it better match the reason you listed for your visit). The bottom-line, tourism is a no-no. Again, this should be with you at all times. Don’t take chances you will not be stopped. It just might be your lucky day.
Trace form
Upon returning back to USA, the CUBA airline staff will need to see this (unless you completed it online) before they allow you to go through customs.
Thomas Reports 