CUBA: The Race dynamic


We are flooded with so much information, most of it we push it aside and keep moving.  Then, there is a little we keep and ponder what it means.

 

The exact date escapes me but it seems about ten years ago that I heard the issue of race in Cuba explained in a way I had never heard nor appreciated.  I was listening to an interview with Professor Dwayne Wickham.  He taught at Morgan State University as well as being a columnist with U.S. Today.  Interestingly he was speaking about his many visits to Cuba and the notion of remittances.  His conclusion was yes, Cuba has a problem with race and among other things it could be seen through remittances, among other social dynamics!

 


Afro-Cubans

Cuba became a colony of Spain in 1492.   The natural resources the Spaniards found required a large labor pool to extract and develop.  Thus, thirteen years later or in 1512 African slaves were imported to the country.

 

“At the peak of the slave-based economy, enslaved people comprised nearly one-third of the Cuban population.”

 

Fast forward to the Haitian revolt as once it occurred, owners of sugar plantations moved their operations to Cuba, specifically on the eastern shores to Santiago.  The result was Cuba became the largest producer of sugar and those slaves needed for labor became important as communities of Afro-Cuba folk developed and once slavery was abolished they took a foothold in the population and the rest is history.

Even today Cuba is known for its vast sugar and tobacco plantations.

 

 


Remittances

 

The little I knew about CUBA didn’t focus on race or more specifically those of Spanish descent and those of African descent.  Perhaps like you I just viewed Cubans from a singular perspective, not one from obvious racial characteristics?   The discussion on remittances brought the issue into more focus as while the majority of Cubans proclaim unity or oneness, those relatives who were forced off the island or otherwise left after the 1959 revolution eventually settled in the United States.  As their lives were rebuilt they were better able to transition as Cubans in America.   Yes, this came with much struggle, sacrifice and perseverance.

 

The impact of those survivors resulted in them being better off than those family members or friends who were left behind.  Thus, through all of the years and up to today the money and the goods received are called remittances.  So, to the issue of race the majority of those who fled to the U.S. were Spanish Cubans or of European descent and the result was the recipients in CUBA became materially “better-off” than their Afro-Cuban fellow countrymen.  The people who left are to be applauded for their resilience and ability to “start-over.”  The issue of race raises it head as in Cuba everybody could use a little help but once the first batch of Cubans arrived after the Revolution,  the United States changed its policy and those of  darker hue or of Afro descent were discouraged or otherwise told they would not be welcomed, thus many simply stayed in CUBA and continued their lives.  Could it have been they were deemed supporters of Fidel and his regime?  The subtlety is race played a pivotal role in determining who was on the receiving in, and who was not.

 

Discussing race, not an easy discussion

 

Discussing race as a topic is not easy.  It’s very polarizing and people simply shun away as some feel the discussion centers of who is the “good” and who is the “bad.”  Or, they simply don’t want to be reminded of historical facts so for them it’s easy not to discuss.

 

Race has long been a paradigm to distinguish people of different ethnic groups.  While people are people race illustrates the great divide.  In the United States the work of noted social scientist, Dr. Francis Crest-Welsing is a leading authority.  For those serious about obtaining an objective analysis of the topic her book, “The Isis Papers” is a great reference and must read.

 

While race is used to distinguish people, it’s engine is racism.  Therefore, as a construct, the lighter one’s hue the better the opportunity or privilege.  Likewise, the darker one’s hue, opportunity lessens as well as their privilege.

 

Aside from those initial Cubans who settled in Miami, it’s not until you are inside Cuba that you fully appreciate the race dynamic.  You quickly come to accept of the 11 million plus people, there are many more than the 13% who are defined as Afro-Cubans?  The effects of racism slap you in the face as for many it is much easier to dismiss any signs of African heritage and proclaim you are “white” or “other” than for who you truly are.

 

“Make no mistake, Afro-Cuban also fled.  But they typically were workers of the Spanish Cubans.” Professor Esteban Morales Dominguez

 

In 2015 I discovered “Race in Cuba, Essays on the Revolution and Racial Inequality” written by Esteban Morales Dominguez.  The book is very intriguing and places the race issue front and center.  You come to quickly understand Morales Dominguez is not an apologist for the Castro regime or trying to sugarcoat the obvious.  Instead the book highlights facts supported by documentation that help to better understand how and why race in Cuba is a hot topic.

 

The Castro critics

 

Having a solid grounding of contemporary history on Cuba might help you establish a better perspective.  No doubt, Fidel Castro and the current administration has many critics.  At the same time, it must be noted the extreme racism Afro-Cubans suffered up to the regimes of the Revolution.  The racism being meted out in Cuba was similar to that of the rest of the world, particularly where there was European dominance.   The revolution singled out those who supported or benefited from the likes of Fulgencio Bautista and his predecessors.  The ideals Castro adopted centered on making CUBA equal for all.  Thus, the notion of educational equality, employment equality, and social equality was a centerpiece of why the Revolution was necessary.  As you might imagine, these measures motivated most Afro-Cubans to side with Fidel and support the cause.  Once the revolution occurred people saw immediate results as Afro-Cubans were given equality and some elevated into the power structure.

 

At the same time, those who were on the opposite end of the Revolution never stopped their vitriol.  While many left the country, or were imprisoned or otherwise dealt the blow of not supporting the regime, they never stopped their criticism or counter-revolutionary tactics to take back control.  As a matter of fact, their antics are very similar to those Americans who even today continue to want to fight the Confederate War.

 

In his book Professor Morales Dominguez makes clear the issue of equality is a process and the remnants of racism and its stubborn effects are not wiped out just like that.  Therefore, the fact that some lives are better off today than before the revolution is a positive reality, but leads to criticism of those who never fully supported the Castro regime or those who through the years have become disgruntled.

 

No doubt, race in CUBA remains an issue.

 

Why write the book?

 

I asked Dr. Morales Dominguez why he wrote the book?   His eyes gleamed as he stressed the pride most Cubans have of their country.  “It’s very simple, either you support or appreciate what Fidel is trying to accomplish………or you don’t!”

 

He went on to explain in 2009 a group of prominent African-Americans presented a document to the Cuban government, denouncing it as a racist regime.  “Statement of Conscience” created quite an uproar as the government felt it was anything but racist, despite Afro-Cubans still being dealt the hand of systemic racism.  The ideal was even though progress had been made there was still much work to be done.  Interesting the letter was signed by the likes of Cornel West, actress Ruby Dee Davis, former congresswoman Carrie Meek and Rev. Jeremiah Wright just to name a few. Afro-Cuban author Enrique Patterson called the declaration “historic.”

 

It was through this declaration that Professor Morales Dominguez felt compelled to use his educational gift and resources to provide a counter position or one that more related to the majority of Afro-Cubans in Cuba.  Thus, a series of essays were created and subsequently became the material for the book, “Race in Cuba.”

As Morales Dominguez told me, yes, we still have many problems in Cuba but ever since the Revolution groups have attempted to use a variety of mechanisms to divide the country, even those such as the signers of the petition who you might feel would be an ally given their likeness of Afro Cubans.  His contention was they are entitled to their opinions but never was it intimated that Cuba had been transformed into some oasis.  Most like him, accepted and understood progress is not necessarily immediate but more of a process.

 

Cruz, Rubio, et. At…..20 Million Dollars

Speaking of counter groups, I asked the professor why so many, particularly those in Florida despise their own country?   His response was interesting.  Ever since Fidel took control and even though the subsequent battles, those who fled assumed with the support and intervention of the United States they would be able regain control of the country.  This became a rallying cry for many and that remains their fuel for the hatred of the Castro regime and anyone who supports it.   The Professor pointed out that is why so many from the Cuban-American community in Florida opposed the actions of President Barack Obama.  Having written extensively on Obama, which includes over twenty-three articles, the Professor voiced appreciation of the common-sense approach he was taking.

 

He then pointed out the 20-million-dollar fund that politicians with Cuban heritage use to appease various groups and maintain counter-revolution support aimed at thwarting the Castro regime.  Professor Morales Dominguez mentioned, “they are like paid employees” who work for the funders of the money and distribute it to various groups in the disguise of democracy but the intent is to denounce the Castro regime.

 

So, this brings us back to the race issue.  Cubans are defined as one.  Yes, since the Revolution Afro-Cubans have seen progress but there is still much work to be done.  Professor Morales Dominguez is the consummate work horse as even though he no longer teaches, he is in much demand as an authority on the subject.  At seventy-six, he beams with pride when recounting why he joined the Revolution.  Even his wife, Katia who was a master professor in Economics talks about how serious she took her meetings with Fidel and leaders of the movement to help create a better Cuba.  The notion of prior to the Revolution, illiteracy was at epidemic levels.  A call went out to those in their teens such as Esteban, Katia and so many who accepted the goal of making Cuba a more literate country.  This topic comes up often when I speak here in Los Angeles to the critics of the Castro regime.  As much as they may despise Fidel and anyone associated with him or my empathy for the people of CUBA, they can’t explain the success of the educational policy and why the literacy rate in Cuba is higher than the United States?

 

Professor Esteban Morales debunks the notion that only 13% of Cuban are of Afro heritage.  He blames the flawed data of the census questionnaire or the type of questions asked for the conflict.  His hope is the next census is clearer so there is no ambiguity of what percentage of Cubans are Afro.  He stated from his observation the number is clearly thirty-five percent, if not more, as the majority of the country are comprised mestizo or mixed blood and there is little if any defined as “white”

This is a recent photo book on Fidel which the Professor gave me from his personal library.

CUBA – Special Report, our recent visit


Our trek to CUBA focused on two specific goals.  One, interview and gain insight into Dr. Esteban Morales Dominguez‘ work on race relations and two, interview officials from the Cuban baseball federation, specifically about the historic impact of the Negro Leagues and how they competed in Cuba way before Jackie Robinson made his major league debut.

I wore my 1947 Cuba National team jersey.  Many folk on the island asked where I got it from and if any were left?  Even when I got back to the U.S. the lad from Customs asked about it.  I told them, you can’t get this is CUBA, it is only available through my homie who owns BallerGear (Larchmont on Sunday’s).

This post will highlight a summary of the trip.  Documentation from the two topics is being edited and will be presented within several days in subsequent posts.


**A special note as this was not planned but the consequence of arriving in Cuba on November 25th took on a special meaning, as it was the one year anniversary of Fidel Castro’s death.  That is the reason we noticed tributes all over the country or at least places we visited.   You could feel the national spirit in the air.


For citizens of the United States going to Cuba and being able to navigate your journey is not for the faint of heart.  Of course, just about every other country of mankind already knows about the magic of the Caribbean’s largest country.  Coincidently our trek occurred at the beginning of tourist season which will go until March.  I did ask our host why it was from November to March and no longer?  The answer was after March, many tourists who are not used to tropical weather find it too uncomfortable or too hot!!

 

During my last visit in 2015 my dear friend Charles Boesan gave a great explanation of how so many people from other countries treasure their visit to Cuba.  It is something you have to see first-hand to fully appreciate but it does make you question the embargo and why some political leaders simply can’t muster the courage to address the issue?

Extend goodwill

This brings us to the issue of the administration of Barack Obama.  The majority of people I spoke to in Cuba have great respect and admiration of President Obama.  They speak with passion of his desire to “open up the country” so citizens from the U.S. could more freely visit the country.  His policies and subsequent visit in 2016 represented a critical achievement for him and represented tremendous pride for the people of Cuba.  Of course, there were those dissidents who were vocally critical of Obama’s gesture as even today they appear locked down in the Cold War ideology and view anything which shows the slightest gains of the country on the world stage as negative. Or they claim it infers the Castro regime will be viewed positively, therefore that is something they will never tolerate…….at least not for now.  Admittedly, the issue is complex so one way or another you either accept the progress or your don’t.

Make no mistake President Obama is not perfect and some feel he could have done more but the point is he made history simply by extending a hand of goodwill.

 

Some in Cuba view Trump as “the Grinch who stole Christmas”

Photographer: Kevin Dietsch/Pool via Bloomberg

 

Luckily for Cuba, tourism is huge and folk from other countries can’t wait for the plane to land.  As a matter of fact, I was corrected and told Mexico is the leading country, followed by Canada, then Spain, Europe, Italy, on and on.  Very few Americans, let alone Afro-Americans or even Belizeans are seen in Cuba BUT Judith and I were treated with great welcome and respect as the people displayed genuine intrigue and warmth.

Let me be clear – as much as I and others may appreciate visiting Cuba, it simply is not for everybody.  The sacrifices can be challenging and make you wonder why in the world would you put yourself through the ordeal?  If you are one of those or you have a “high maintenance” personality my advice is to go to other countries where issues are hidden and all you see are the glistening waters, the pampering and all of the attention you don’t mind paying for.  I did run into a few folk (from the U.S.) who couldn’t wait to leave the island.  But after some conversation with them I honestly would assess their problems stemmed from lack of preparation or unreasonable expectations.

 

Cubans we spoke to are very eager to find out about Americans.  They feel Trump’s actions have pulled the rug from under them as the gestures executed by the Obama administration wet their appetite of enormous possibilities.  They view actions by Trump as a big step in the wrong direction or going back to the cold war environment.  Further, it’s not about liking Obama or disliking Trump but more about common sense.  Through his actions Obama opened dialogue and the opportunity to develop relationships.  Trump’s behavior is consistent in showing us his style and his ideology.   He may think his rise to political power is due to his business acumen but some would point to his manipulation of people’s fears or his quest to divide or otherwise create roadblocks for people to unite.  His moniker of “Make America Great Again” is viewed as a euphemism or hustle to project an us versus them mentality, and surprisingly many people agree with him!  So, it’s one thing to attempt to dismantle anything positive the Obama administration achieved, it’s another thing to use policies to affect unity.

 

As a matter of fact, with the recent update of the travel restrictions as well as the State Department issuing a travel warning, many who have yearned to finally visit Cuba feel their dreams have vanished, at least temporarily.  Of course, Treasury Department still allows those who fall within legitimate categories to visit Cuba.  However, confusion is still in the air and there is lots of misinformation.  Incidentally about two weeks prior to our scheduled trip I received an email from our host with a tone of consternation as they felt we would have to cancel our trip.

Of course, the rest is history as our trip was successful and we had absolutely no issues going to Cuba or returning back to the United States.

Preparation

This is shared from our experience.  Yours may be exactly the same or it may be different.

  • Verify your trip meets guidelines issued by Treasury Department
  • Itinerary
  • Passport
  • Travel Visa
  • Housing
  • Money
  • Health Insurance
  • Departure Tax

Many people I speak to who are U.S. citizens are excited about visiting Cuba.  Yes, they should be excited but one must understand, they need a purpose?  In other words what is your motivation to visit Cuba?  It surely can’t be that of a tourist or to go check out the beaches, smoke cigars or lounge around drinking rum!  Cuba has its issues and for many the sight of the buildings or the inconveniences you deal with are more than even the Trump administration’s discouragement.  However, for the bold, the few that don’t necessarily need to travel in a pack, or those who don’t judge folk from material possessions will appreciate the resilience of the people of Cuba.  The bottom-line is if you have the spirit to accept folk where they are at and truly want to explore how they navigate through every day life, then you will have a great experience.

 

Once you decide or make a commitment to visit Cuba my best tip is to do yourself a favor a do a little homework on CUBA.  Get a grasp on the history, the places you will stay as well as the requirements necessary for a successful trip.

 

A POINTER – WHILE THE POLICIES FOR CITIZENS OF THE UNITED STATES ARE BASIC AND VERY CLEAR, KEEP IN MIND PROCESSES MAY CHANGE FROM TIME TO TIME SO THE KEY IS IF IN DOUBT ASK QUESTIONS BUT MAKE SURE THE RESPONSE IS FROM AN AUTHORITIVE SOURCE.

 

  • Verify you meet the approved categories as mandated by the Treasury Department.

 

Air travel.  We flew Alaska Airlines and to our amazement was able to secure a NONSTOP flight from LAX – 5 ½ hours at a price that was better than a “Black Friday” special.

Alaska airline has special line for CUBA

sadly – as of January 5, 2018 Alaska Airlines will cease flights to Havana.

  • Itinerary – Part of the Treasury Department guidelines is you must have a specific reason to visit.  So, word to the wise, take a couple of minutes and prepare a bullet-proof itinerary or schedule.  AND, it should be part of the documentation you have with you at all times.  I had mine on my smart phone.  Never had to show anything to anybody………but had it ready if needed.

 

 

Documents

 

  • Passport – you need a valid passport.  One other critical notation.  In the past while you must present your passport, it was not stamped by Cuba customs.  Instead, they stamped your travel visa.  HOWEVER, this time was different.  Upon entering CUBA, they stamped my travel visa and I didn’t notice it at the time but when we departed and presented our documents at customs and received my passport, I noticed they kept the travel visa but the passport was stamped.

 

  • Travel Visa – this is the document you need to enter Cuba and it must be on you at all times.   Now, I got snake bit as the initial plan was to obtain from the Cuba Embassy in D.C. (I happen to be in DC in September and stopped by the Consulate and received specs on what documents I needed as well as the $50.  Well, we never received.  No worries, on a worse case basis your airline or departing airport will have a legitimate organization which will sell you a travel visa, ON THE SPOT.  In our case, once we checked in at Alaska airlines, they simply pointed us to the kiosk which had staff from Cuba Travel Services and the fee was $100.  The give you a folder with your travel visa.  They instruct you to write your name, passport, info, etc. and have ready to present once you arrive in CUBA.  One more point and I don’t know the specific answer………….it appears where you fly from will determine the cost of your travel visa because the closer you are to CUBA may result in a reduced fee.  Anyway, ours was $100 and yes, Cuba Travel Services accepts payment via credit card.
Cuba Travel Services was on site and after payment you are given pouch which includes your visa. You complete it before you arrive to Cuba. Cost $100

 

Housing

 

** see footnote at bottom of post regarding casa particulares

I get questions all of the time from those in the United States who have never visited Cuba and have this grand illusion they are going to nab a five-star hotel and get treated to spas, room service, etc.   Cuba has some great hotels and if your idea is paying $300-$400 per night, you probably should pass on going?  Here’s why, at least from my opinion.  Cuba has tremendous architecture and buildings which make for a unique sight.  As for housing, in addition to hotels, there are hostels, airBnB and then Casa Particulares.  To be specific hostels, airBnB and Casa Particulares could be lumped into one category as for the most part they are private residences.  I prefer legitimate Casa Particulares (staying in someone’s private home where they have transformed a room or two or an area to rent out).  The owner’s must obtain a license and you will notice it on the front of their building.  Anyway, by staying at a Casa Particulares instead of properties which are more corporate, you are having a direct positive financial impact on the family.  The $20 – $40 per night you are making may appear like a steal to you, and yes it is.  But, in Cuba the average salary is $30-$40 per month but be careful not to assume the people are “dying on the vine.”    You just have to understand their economic system.  Anyway, the fee you pay goes a long way to allow the family more financial freedom, plus it is your opportunity to engage the people directly.  So, if you’re not a people person or don’t care about understanding their culture, trek down to the hotel and pay $300.  Otherwise, the better tip is find a legit Casa Particulares as it will be one of the best investments you will make.   Also, many properties have private access with a key so you aren’t bugging the family when you enter or leave.

There are many sites which advertise Casas, so do your homework and ask questions.  Parts of  Cuba are very urban and look like a war zone and other parts are very rural, yet people reside there and have acceptable accommodations.  Further, I have seen no homelessness or beggars and I am sure they are there but that is yet another stark reality which will make you appreciate the resilience of the people.

For this trip I felt like I hit the jackpot!  In setting up the trip and corresponding with Professor Dominguez, he offered us to stay at his place as his wife operates a licensed casa Particulares.  This allowed us to spend more time interviewing him about his work without the hassle of traveling to a set appointment..

 

THIS IS OUR CASA PARTICULARES IN OLD HAVANA

upon arriving in Havana, our host prepared an outstanding traditional Cuban dinner. Rice and Black Bean Soup, Roasted Pork, Casava, Salad and desert (the name escapes me).
This is our balcony. Katia asked us to bring a U.S. flag as she likes each visitor to showcase their country
bathroom – small but functional and clean.
shower
kitchen never had to use.
street scene – park directly across the street
Our room was functional and was more like a suite as it had a couch and room to stretch out.
This is the kitchen area outside the rooms.
Look for the little anchor sign on your Casa. That is your proof the property is properly registered.
View from our third floor balcony. The Capitol was about 2 kilometers to the north.
This is our Casa Particulares. It has three floors and each owner owns one floor. We were on the third flood. No elevators but no worries – great exercise.
Our Casa had two patios. Very quaint.
Our patio had a hammock facing the street so here is Judith catching a break.

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THIS IS OUR CASA PARTICULARES IN TRINIDAD.

Very affordable at $24 per night.

Bath – very functional and clean

Our host Julio
Julio runs the Casa business with his grandmother and girlfriend. Great host, very accomodating.
saying good-bye

Transportation

 

Usually when I travel I love the independence of having my own car.  CUBA is the exception.  You are not in the United States or whatever country you may be coming from so be warned CUBA laws are different and I don’t want to be like the three UCLA basketball players relying on Trump to get us out!!!!

With 11 million plus folk, CUBA is vast and once there you will immediately understand why it is the largest country in the Caribbean.  Anyway, busing or taxi is the way to go.  Of course, for us, we don’t mind walking and did lots of it.  The benefit was getting some great exercise but more important it allowed us to see some sites, neighborhoods you surely would not otherwise be able to see.  I know folk who won’t take the bus on a regular basis here in California but if you are going to Cuba and truly want to meet the people taking the BUS IS THE WAY TO GO.  The trick is to stay alert, oh and to our surprise the bus system goes 24 hours (in the major cities).

Transportation cost can be dicey, as it is assumed you know about the money.  Buses take about 40 pesos or 10 cents, while taxi vary from 25 cents to 1 dollar but the key is to ask your host for pointers on how to navigate transportation.  Also, if you are traveling through the country you will be on a luxury bus. So, as an example our trip from Havana to Trinidad, which was a 7-hour journey ONE WAY but went through 4 key cities/communities cost $50 round trip – what a deal.

 

Money

 

In Cuba there are two currencies – 1.  Convertible Pesos (CUC), equals one dollar to one CUC and 2.  Pesos or national money which equals 24 to 1, so one CUC = 24 pesos.  So, as an example you will see a bottle of coco-cola for 35, which is a little more than 1 peso.

In Cuba many businesses, especially those known as tourist spots will have most items marked in CUC or the higher currency, so you really have to pay attention and perhaps change your plans to try to patronize or spend money at the local or independent businesses because they are for local folk which results in you being able to spend CUPS (24 to 1).  Makes sense????  If not, contact me.

 

Obtaining Cuba currency.  There is no silver bullet as whether you transfer money at the airport, at the Cadeca, with a private person, the hotel, etc. the U.S. dollar gets hammered………. but your options are limited.  Anyway, expect a penalty of 15 cents for every dollar, so you once you trade your dollar you walk away with 85 cents.  It is what it is!!!!  But then again, you’re paying less than $50 per day for housing, less than a couple of bucks for transportation, less than $10 for food etc.  Oh, for those cigar smokers or rum drinkers, they are very affordable as a matter of fact rum is less than the cost of water!!

Health Insurance

Health Insurance is a requirement for U.S. citizens entering Cuba.  You can purchase upon arriving OR, as in our case it was part of our travel fee.

Departure Tax

AFTER MAY 1st, 2015:

*** NEW PROCEDURE ***
Since May 1, 2015 the Cuban Departure Tax will no longer be paid at destination. It should be included in the price of your trip when buying a flight-only or vacation package to Cuba, check with you travel agent, carrier or tour operator.`  The departure tax was included in our airline ticket.

Food 

Cuban food is very accessible.  For some, you will love the street food.  Bottled water is readily available.  Then again some may opt to go to one of the many restaurants.  Seafood is plentiful.  The beef comes from Canada.  Poultry comes from the U.S., so it depends on what you are looking for but the key is you will not starve.  As an example, I got a piece of fried chicken for 1 CUC.  We had a full lobster dinner with 2 drinks and the price was 14 CUCS.  A ham and cheese sandwich are 1 CUC.  The key is prices vary based on where you are at but I can’t stress, the more flexible you are……. the better experience you will have.

 

Casa Particulares Old Havana – breakfast
the famous Coppelia Ice Cream venue
Casa Particulares in Trinidad – great breakfast
Pina Colada and traditional Ham & Cheese
Cuban espresso anyone?

Internet

I can’t stress this……DO YOUR RESEARCH and do not fall for the B.S.  Internet is available in Cuba.  Then again, I doubt seriously you travel to CUBA to lay on the internet all day…….but the point is you do have access.

There are hot spots in most of the major areas.  In addition you can purchase internet access cards at the major hotels (Nacional Hotel of Cuba and Habana Libre Hotel) which in my case was $4.50 for 1 hour.  May seem pricey……but well worth it because you are merely checking in or doing something specific, not laying on-line for hours at a time.

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ADDITIONAL DOCUMENTATION

PHOTOS

Photo Gallery – CUBA 2017 – People

Photo Gallery – CUBA 2017 – Snapshot, Sights & Scenes

Photo Gallery – CUBA 2017 – Food & Beverages

Photo Gallery – CUBA 2017 – Casa Particulares

Photo Gallery – CUBA 2017 – Autos

Photo Gallery – CUBA 2017 – Sites

VIDEOS

 

 

Websites

Judith & Fred’s Cuban Blog

Documentaries

For those visiting Cuba for the first time or if you haven’t been in a while, I would highly recommend you do yourself a favor and research the country so that you are properly informed, at at minimum gain a perspective of what you are about to discover.

Upon returning and unpacking as well as editing my footage, I came across two excellent pieces of information which you may find helpful

“The Cuba Libre Story” and “Cuba and the Cameraman.”

The Cuba Libre Story reminds me of the iconic Eyes on the Prize documentary which covered the civil rights struggles of African-Americans.  Cuba Libre has a similar format as there are eight videos which provide a great historical snapshot of Cuba’s history up to 2015.

 

Cuba and the Camera chronicles journalist Jon Alpert’s visits to Cuba and cover a forty year period but brings you up to the death of Fidel.


 

Footnotes

Casa particulares

I post the casa particulares I have stayed at or know about on TripAdvisor.  Unfortunately they do not allow postings for many sites.  I don’t know the exact answer but I think it has to do with owners needing to pay a fee/subscription or something?

Havana

hostalKhabana (Katia Dominguez)

  • (53) 78786495
  • michel@cubarte.cult.cu
  • Ayesteran 24 (between Maloja and Carlos III)
  • easy to get to bus stop is across the street or within 2 blocks plus easy access for taxi’s
  • has large room and small room
  • property is on third floor – no elevators
  • upon request will prepare meals
  • you are provided keys so you have independent access
  • Cost is very affordable – expect $25 per night
  • bathroom is very functional and has shower

Casa Particulares Mariela (Mariela Lopez)

  • (53)78353348
  • mariela_1056@yahoo.es
  • Calle 19 #1060 – e/12 y 14 (Vedado)
  • easy to get to.  in between avenida 21 & avenida 23
  • Room is apartment – downstairs/upstairs – very functional
  • upon request will prepare meals
  • you are provided keys so you have independent access
  • Cost is very affordable – expect $35 per night
  • bathroom is very functional and has shower

Trinidad

Casa Katiuska (ask for Jose Julio)

  • (53) 52711385
  • katiuskatrinidad@yahoo.es
  • Frank Pais #36
  • easy to get to, near the main part of Trinidad
  • Has several rooms – very functional
  • great patio
  • upon request will prepare meals
  • you are provided keys so you have independent access
  • Cost is very affordable – expect $25 per night
  • bathroom is very functional and has shower

 


This trek could not be completed if not for the support and love from my wife Judith, who also worked as research assistant on this project.  Also, Dr. Esteban Morales Dominguez never wavered from our initial contact in 2015 to agree to allow us to interview him regarding his work.  He and his wife, Katia were outstanding host.  Also, it must be noted our host in Trinidad; Jose Julio, his grandmother Eulalia and his girlfriend Daritza were simply outstanding in making us feel right at home.

Finally, thanks to Charles, Lani, Tanisha and Tiffany as well as others for encouraging us to make this trip and to complete this important work.

  1.  The interview including video regarding our historic discussion with   Professor Esteban Morales Dominguez will be posted in a few days.
  2.  Our interview and video regarding the discussion with the Masters   Basketball team and other critical issues about our visit will be posted in   a  few days.

Review: Roman J. Israel, esq – Symposium & Discussion


Roman J. Israel, Esq. is a dramatic thriller set in the underbelly of the overburdened Los Angeles criminal court system. Denzel Washington stars as a driven, idealistic defense attorney whose life is upended when a turbulent series of events challenge the activism that has defined his career. Colin Farrell costars as the ambitious, monied lawyer who recruits Roman to his firm.

[Leimert Park, CA]  Known as the cultural heartbeat of the African-American community Leimert Park was full of energy as SONY Pictures, the African-American Film Critics Association and the Urban Issues Forum hosted a symposium and discussion on the upcoming movie Roman J. Israel, esg.  Last night a standing room only crowd squeezed in the iconic Regency West supper club to hear first hand why this movie is a must-see.

“You have lots of great civil rights attorney’s but they are not the same as civil rights activist.”  Jasmyne Cannick.

Led by AAFCA president Gil Robertson the panel was allowed to stretch out and gave great examples of current day activism in Los Angeles.  The panelists were social critic and political commentator Jasmyne Cannick;  the film’s director and producer Dan Gilroy; Professor of African-American studies and noted historian of activism in Los Angeles, Dr. Anthony Samad and noted community activist attorney Nana Gyamfi.

Asked about what motivated him to create the film, director Gilroy stated he is a “child of the 60’s” who grew up in a very liberal-minded family.  He noted the impact of the civil rights movement and how he came to appreciate the activist attorney’s who worked during that period even up until now.  “The issues never stop,” mentioned Gilroy.  He spoke how the character portrayed in the movie had a unique personality and once he showed the screen play to lead actor Denzel Washington the rest is history.  Washington played a critical role in developing the film and once the movie “Fences” was completed he gave his full energy in helping Gilroy bring the movie to the big screen.  Screening is set with a special engagement on November 17th in Los Angeles and New York.

The film is set in Los Angeles during the ’70’s and is one you will enjoy.  Coincidently, coming out of the civil rights movement many students moving on to college were motivated to study law.  A good crop were led to become proficient as “people’s law” attorney’s with the aspiration to bring justice to all of those who were underserved or victims of the criminal justice system.  Like the movie character Israel, they weren’t the most flashy in appearance but were extraordinary in understanding the law and how it could benefit the clients who sought them out.  Israel’s character also reminds you of the work such as James Bell who has built a stellar legal career dealing with the injustices of youth.

New Travel to Cuba Guidelines Announced


[Washington, D.C.] Updated regulations for U.S. citizens traveling to Cuba to be effective Thursday, November 9, 2017

** It is important to note that those who have already made legitimate travel arrangements prior to November 9th, and fall within the categories of travel will not be negatively impacted by the updated regulations.

The Department of the Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) is amending the Cuban Assets Control Regulations to implement the National Security Presidential Memorandum (NSPM), “Strengthening the Policy of the United States Toward Cuba,” signed by the President on June 16, 2017. These amendments implement changes to the authorizations for travel to Cuba and related transactions and restrict certain financial transactions. These
amendments also implement certain technical and conforming changes.

 

Click here for the FAQ’s on the updated guidelines.

Part of the irritation for many who applauded the Obama administration’s common sense approach of offering hope in establishing communication with Cuba, is to see Donald Trump and his administration hell-bent on trying to dismantle anything viewed positively by Obama, with very little regard to the desires of the american people.

“I think overall it’s certainly a step backwards.  It’s bad for U.S. companies. It’s bad for U.S. travelers.” Collin Laverty, president of Cuba Educational Travel

The movie MARSHALL: My review


[Los Angeles, CA] The movie “Marshall” is set for release this weekend.  I was fortunate to be in attendance with some of my BPG (Black Professional Group) colleagues as they hosted an advance screening Wednesday, October 11th.

 

The life of Thurgood Marshall has been chronicled in the annals of contemporary history.  However as iconic as his legal career was and his subsequent place as a justice on the Supreme Court, there is much about him the public does not know.   The two most recent books of his life do a good job in presenting his career; Thurgood Marshall: American Revolutionary written by Juan Williams (2000) and Showdown, written by Wil Haygood (2015).

 

Marshall” the movie does a good job of showcasing his brilliance of our legal system.  It is not a documentary but more of a bio-pic.  Therefore, it does take creative license in presenting a very entertaining movie.  Certain scenes take me back to “Native Son” as race and sex are center stage.  You have a black chauffeur accused of raping a white woman, whom he worked for.  We have seen this plot before.  As a young attorney Marshall was part of the NAACP Legal Defense Fund so he was summoned to represent the chauffeur who claimed to be falsely accused.

bi·o·pic
ˈbīōˌpik/

noun

informal
noun: biopic; plural noun: biopics; noun: bio-pic; plural noun: bio-pics
  1. a biographical movie.

 

Through twist and turns of dealing with sheer racism and a system which automatically assumed those accused, especially if they were black (African-American) were guilty, Marshall used his gift to motivate and convince the lead attorney they could turn the system to their favor while seeking to exonerate their client.

My grade

If you know about Justice Thurgood Marshall, you will score the film high.  However, if you are not aware of his career or the plight of blacks during that period, you will miss the sensitivities and may provide a lower grade.  My grade comes in at a solid 7, and after some reflection I could see moving it up to an 8 because it covered so much ground.

 

The cast is very contemporary but at the end you are treated to three people who make a cameo appearance which make you appreciate the struggle of working through the legal system in trying to achieve justice.

 

More information.

 

On Tuesday, October 10th the National Museum of African-American History and Culture in Washington, DC also had a special screening.  Those in attendance were treated to a post question and answer conducted by Wil Haygood (The Butler) as he interviewed the director, Reginald Hudlin.    There are many poignant comments during the 32-minute session, including how not one U.S. company was willing to fund the project.  The usual excuse of the film not having a broad audience was the reason Hudlin shared.  How many times have we heard that only to see such movies take on worldwide interest?   Hudlin’s work was eventually realized as Chinese investors stepped forward.

Question and Answer with director

Here is the official trailer

Chadwick BosemanJosh GadKate Hudson

CUBA:  Which U.S. Credit Card to use?


Yes, United States citizens can use their debit/credit card while travelling in Cuba.

 

99% plus of United States citizens traveling to Cuba know that dollars are the primary currency needed to navigate through the country.  While getting businesses to accept dollars can be risky, if not tricky, the common practice is once you land at the airport you venture to the exchange office and convert your dollars into Cuban currency (currently the rate is 1:.87, so you quickly lose 13 cents but your options are limited if non-existent).

 

“We offer both a debit card attached to a checking account and a credit card that is usable in Cuba,”  Officer, Centennial/Stonegate Bank

 

The one legitimate U.S. bank which provides a credit card to use in Cuba is a Mastercard issued by Centennial Bank formerly Stonegate Bank of Florida.   The bank issues a credit card as well as debit card.  They have offices in Arkansas, Alabama and New York.  That is very important because to receive a debit card you must personally go to one of their offices.  The reason is because the debit card is tied to a checking account.  The credit card can be applied for online.

 

One other critical part of the application process is you must submit a supplemental certification that you are authorized to travel to Cuba.   It is assumed if you have properly planned for your trip to Cuba you have the creditworthiness of obtaining the credit card or debit card.

Finally, as most already know the U.S./Cuba relationship is fluid and subject to change without notice, so the best advice is to ask questions and verify with legitimate sources so that you can enjoy your visit.

NMAAHC Special Event and Foodie Excursion


[Washington, DC]   The National Museum of African-American History  and Culture (NMAAHC) recently celebrated its one-year anniversary.  As part of the festivities this past weekend they celebrated a special event for Charter Members.  It was a great event that allowed visitors to explore the museum without the usual wall to wall throngs that have been attracted to one of the top venues on the National Mall.

 

 


Some of the exhibits

 

 

In light of Colin Kaepernik’s protest and subsequent support from the NFL, all those who disagree with how and why protest occur is to visit this iconic statue representing Tommie Smith, John Carlos and Peter Norman.
Guest were treated to Champagne/Wine and gourmet cupcakes
Jesse Owens
Jackie Robinson
circular featuring Barry Bonds
Eddie Robinson

Some of the exhibits


Because it was a night event I left after several hours so I could explore other venues on the mall.  The Washington Monument is directly across the street from the museum and it looked majestic.

 

Since Puerto Rico has been devastated by the recent Hurricane’s, I remembered one of the great visuals about the National World War II memorial is a large stone statue representing each state.  Due to Donald Trump’s comments about Puerto Rico which I determined as pure ignorance, lack of sympathy and just plain stupid I was curious about the crowd which had gathered by the stone.  It was refreshing to see so many out, simply reflecting and being in their quiet space while paying respect to the people of Puerto Rico.

 

From the World War II Memorial, I made the long trek south to the Lincoln Memorial.  The lighting is amazing and the brilliance of the reflection pool gave a new meaning to our history as a country.  As I made my way up the stairs towards where President Lincoln is sitting while overlooking the mall, I paused so I could stop by the plaque marking the spot where Rev., Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. delivered the iconic March on Washington speech.

From the Lincoln Memorial it was nearing 11:00pm, so I needed to hustle over to the MLK Memorial.  I was told my staff at the NMAAHC that it was probably closed.  Having been there numerous times, I doubted it was closed but you just never know if there had been any changes implemented by the National Park service.  The site was open and just like the other sites I was pleasantly surprised at the number of people who had milled inside the venue.

It was a very good trip and I am happy the NMAAHC had the charter event which allowed for another trek of exploration.  Also, those who are familiar with the history of Washington, DC know the city is basically split into four quadrants; Northwest, Northeast, Southwest & Southeast.  For this trek I decided to change it up a bit and selected a Marriott in the Dupont Circle or Northwest section.  This would force me to venture out and reconnect with sites I had not visited in years.  Among others, it was great to spend time in the Adams Morgan neighborhood.

 

view from my room

As with any trek, it’s great to experience the communities and culture through food, so listed are some of the food spots I connected with.


Other Sites

Washington DC is full of interesting sites and places to visit.  On another note and to the chagrin of Donald Trump and his supporters who rode into the presidency with high ambitions and a full agenda of what they would accomplish on day one.

“He is a successful businessperson who brings the right skills to get things done.  Plus, he is not a traditional politician and we need someone to disrupt the status-quo,” anonymous Trump supporter

Yet many, especially his most dedicated supporters would be shocked to wake up nearly ten months into his presidency and not be able to point to or claim one legislative accomplishment!   The reason that is important or worthy of caring is due to the bombastic comments and arrogance made of what would happen if elected.  Who can forget his throated comments of what would happen on Day One!.  Have the people been duped?  Has Donald Trump come to realize government is needed and that operations may appear similar to running a business but accountability is much different, especially of things you can get away with at privately closed organizations?

One thing you notice while traveling around the District are t-shirts endearing the terms of President Obama.  No doubt, the District is known as a democratic town and one which has great affinity of Obama.  Still, it’s an interesting parallel when you factor what has occurred since Donald Trump was sworn into office.

The famous mural donning the side wall of Ben’s Chili Bowl was updated approximately six months ago.  Those familiar with the mural will remember Bill Cosby was featured and the update has removed his image.  It was great to see Dick Gregory being honored.


Foodie Excursion

Skewers by Chef Morimoto

For ramen lovers, this is a great dish. Very tasty.

 

Bub and Pop’s is a great restaurant in Dupont Circle.  They have been featured on Diner’s, Drive-Ins and Dives.

Sliced brisket with fried egg. Order of home fries.

Peet’s Coffee and Tea.  A great place for coffee connoisseurs.  Located on 15th and M it is a great place to chill-out and charge your devices as there are plenty of power outlets and free Wi-Fi is also available.

Peet’s traditional latte

Uprising Muffin Company is located in the historic Shaw District.  Very roomy but get there early as they only make enough muffins for the day and your selection could get sold out.

full of great blueberries
blueberry muffin and basic cup of coffee (very good)

Sweet Home Cafe is a remarkable place and part of the NMAAHC.  Even though it was late or around dinner time, and even though grits are a staple within our household, JB gave me a tip that this was the dish to experience.  Outstanding.

Shrimp and Grits representing the South Carolina tradition of using gulf shrimp and milled grits.

Ben’s Chili Bowl is a “must stop” when going to DC.

The Ali’s
The famous Ben’s Chili Bowl combo. Half smoke, Fries & Lemonade

Busboy’s & Poets is another great spot that is a must stop when travelling to the District.  It’s in the U corridor but the restaurant/bookstore is fantastic and the history pays homage to Langston Hughes who was known as a busboy.  The restaurant is part of the Langston lofts complex which features an apartment complex.  One sad note is as much as I love this place, I was extremely disappointed in the service.  I sat at the bar and couldn’t believe the lack of service, let alone being served their famous chili.  Unfortunately when the waiter finally brought it out, it was cold!

The Diner located in the heart of the Adams Morgan community, it features basic comfort food.

Chicken Biscuit Breakfast

Grille District is located at the Reagan airport inside terminal two.  The pork belly tacos (3) are a must have.

Actions Taken in Response to Attacks on U.S. Government Personnel in Cuba


Che. photo courtesy of Fred Thomas, III

I am looking forward to my upcoming trip to Cuba in November.  It is  extremely important for me as I have been blessed to line up interviews with two pre-eminent scholars on topics I am covering, then Tillerson announces this!

No doubt, when traveling to another country, as citizens we rely on our State department to look out for our best interest.

I know folk who get sick drinking the water next door, or the person who loses their passport in another country!! yikes, or the person petrified to leave the neighborhood, let alone city or even the United States.

Thank god, I’m a little more calculating or willing to take measured risk.  The State department’s memorandum is quite clear, then again it is a bit nebulous depending on one’s perspective.

Even prior to the announcement,  within a trip already scheduled to be in DC, I had planned to visit the Cuba Embassy/Consulate.  My primary purpose is to get specifics on obtaining my travel visa which is needed for entry into Cuba.  My concern is the disparity in pricing of the tourist visa as if the true or only cost is $100 (from LAX) then, that is what it will be!!!  Period.  But, I need to justify the why, from a legitimate authority.

Now for those like me who are traveling to Cuba and also may be concerned about today’s State department announcement my suggestion is to do like I did.  Step back and think rationally, then since it is tough to contact the State Department for a real conversation, you are better off contacting your CONGRESSIONAL representative.  Mine was extremely knowledgeable and pleasant.  And yes, I received the information I am seeking.

Today’s State Department announcement is not a mandate or a directive but more of an alert.  So, while some may in fact cancel their trip, given my planning and familiarity of where I will be visiting, I am willing to take my chances and keep my schedule in place.  So, as of today I have a green light.

Listed below is the announcement by the State Department in response to the issues affecting the United States Embassy in Cuba.


Actions Taken in Response to Attacks on U.S. Government Personnel in Cuba

Remarks

Rex W. Tillerson
Secretary of State
Washington, DC
September 29, 2017

Over the past several months, 21 U.S. Embassy employees have suffered a variety of injuries from attacks of an unknown nature. The affected individuals have exhibited a range of physical symptoms, including ear complaints, hearing loss, dizziness, headache, fatigue, cognitive issues, and difficulty sleeping. Investigators have been unable to determine who is responsible or what is causing these attacks.

United States Embassy in Havana, Photo courtesy of Fred Thomas, III

On September 29, the Department ordered the departure of non-emergency personnel assigned to the U.S. Embassy in Havana, as well as all family members. Until the Government of Cuba can ensure the safety of our diplomats in Cuba, our Embassy will be reduced to emergency personnel in order to minimize the number of diplomats at risk of exposure to harm.

In conjunction with the ordered departure of our diplomatic personnel, the Department has issued a Travel Warning advising U.S. citizens to avoid travel to Cuba and informing them of our decision to draw down our diplomatic staff. We have no reports that private U.S. citizens have been affected, but the attacks are known to have occurred in U.S. diplomatic residences and hotels frequented by U.S. citizens. The Department does not have definitive answers on the cause or source of the attacks and is unable to recommend a means to mitigate exposure.

The decision to reduce our diplomatic presence in Havana was made to ensure the safety of our personnel. We maintain diplomatic relations with Cuba, and our work in Cuba continues to be guided by the national security and foreign policy interests of the United States. Cuba has told us it will continue to investigate these attacks and we will continue to cooperate with them in this effort.

The health, safety, and well-being of our Embassy community is our greatest concern. We will continue to aggressively investigate these attacks until the matter is resolved.

San Francisco Trek & Foodie Excursion


Iconic Twin Peaks is in the background

[San Francisco, CA]  Isn’t traveling or going to visit someplace the same as a trek?  In our world, there is a difference.  A trek is all about exploration or delving into areas that are not on the “beaten path.”  One more important element is unlike traveling or a vacation where you might have a healthy budget, trekking is a low-budget proposition (at least for us).

not for the weak or feeble. From the JB Villa…downhill across the pedestrian bridge to access the iron horse

In a city like San Francisco the congestion and lack of parking make driving near impossible.  You could literally spend three days driving around looking for parking spots!  So, instead to get around we planned our trek to include a combination of public transportation (BART, Iron-Horse), walking and sprinkled with a little Uber.

at Alamo Square park with famous “pink ladies” in the background

We have been going to San Francisco for decades.  The city is known for its eclectic flair and throughout the years its communities and businesses have gone through various renaissances.  So, the San Francisco you may have experienced may have a totally different look today.

 

Here is our presentation of a recent trek we accomplished over a three-day span.

 

Headed to law school in the mid 70’s I helped drive my friend from Southern California to San Francisco.  His apartment which was a great “flat” was named the JB Villa.  It was located in funky part of San Francisco known as the “Western Edition” in the Fillmore District.  About eight years ago the JB Villa was relocated to the toney Bernal Heights section of the Mission District.  So it was there were we rested and refreshed before heading in/out each day.

Scenes from “The Mission”

For this trek, our goal was to take in a few sites and experience several of the newer restaurants as well as some of the staples which are always part of our stay.

 

Da Young Museum (Golden Gate Park)

We had not been to Golden Gate Park in years.  In planning our trek, JB gave us a tip that checking out the Revelations exhibit was a rare find.

Union Square

Union Square is a staple for most visitors to the city.  It right in the heart of high-end shopping and for me a great place to people-watch and just chill out.

panorama view of shops bordering Union Square plaza

 

 

 

 

World Famous Ice Cream Museum

 

Market Street and the Civic Center

Civic Center plaza is an iconic venue in San Francisco.

Twitter Headquarters on Market Street

Foodie Excursion

 

The Old Clam House – The Mission District

Known as San Francisco’s oldest restaurant.  It is located on the fringe of the Mission District.  It has great funk and once inside you feel like going back in time, while being treated to some tasty dishes.

Iced Tea presentation
Their signature dish – Cippino
Sourdough bread

Eddie’s Soul Food Café   – The Western Edition/Fillmore District

The Western Edition in the Fillmore District was an African-American enclave.  Eddie’s was a small diner specializing in Louisiana type dishes.  Over the year as the face of the community changed and gentrification became a way of life, Eddie’s sold to new owners.  They were of Korean descent and agreed to keep the menu and the character of the restaurant.

 

 

Da Young Café – Da Young Museum/Golden Gate Park

The café is part of the museum complex.  A great place to relax and grab some refreshments.

Posole

Bayshore Taqueria – The Mission District

Your basic taqueria featuring a variety of Mexican dishes.

Taco Salad

 

Buttermilk Café Southern Cooking – The Mission District

Catering to southern style cuisine

Chicken & Waffles
Shrimp & Grits
Great Southern Style Cooking

Brenda’s French Soul Restaurant – The Tenderloin District

Catering to southern style cuisine with a flair of French cooking.

New Orleans Camilia’s red beans and rice
catfish poboy
french toast

Napa Farms Market / Tyler Florence at SFO

Judith sporting trendy tee from National Museum of African-American History and Culture

For those with a gourmet taste and who happen to be at terminal 2 of the San Francisco International Airport you will be right at home at Napa Farms Market which features many great dishes by Tyler Florence.

Belize – celebrating 36 years of independence


Congratulations to Mr. Roland Yorke, Consul General of Belize, staff and supporters, Office of Consulate General of Belize to California for the 36th Anniversary of Independence and the 219th Anniversary Battle of St. George’s Caye.

Los Angeles is home to more than 125,000 who hail from Central America’s smallest and only english speaking country; BELIZE.   The event is a testament of their hard work to leverage the various community groups to help those in the motherland, whose population is estimated at 300,000.

A complete copy of the souvenir booklet can be found on the link below.

belize st. george caye celeb 982017

BELIZEAN INDEPENDENCE DAY – SEPT. 21ST